Beyond 925: How to Read a Jewelry Listing
Genius Loci / The Study
A 925 mark tells you the silver is sterling: 925 parts pure silver in every thousand. It does not tell you who stands behind the mark, what covers the silver, or what the stones are. Read a jewelry listing the way a jeweller reads a piece: metal first, then surface, then stones, then the maker. [1]
Collier poinçon argent 925 / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons
Start with the metal beneath the surface
The Federal Trade Commission explains that "silver", "sterling" and "sterling silver" all describe metal containing 92.5% pure silver, and that a 925 mark means 925 parts per thousand are pure silver. A 925 mark tells you about the silver alloy. It does not, by itself, tell you whether a piece has a gold finish or how thick that finish is. [1]
Two neighbours of sterling are worth knowing. "Coin silver" is 90% pure silver, a little below sterling. "Silver plate" is a layer of silver over a base metal, which is a different thing altogether. [1]
Look for the name beside the 925 mark
The number is only half of a proper silver mark. Under US law, silver items must also show the name or registered trademark of the company or person who stands behind the mark. The FTC gives the same advice for gold: if you see a karat mark but no trademark beside it, don't buy. A listing that photographs the clasp or the inside of a band, so you can read both, is telling you more than one that only says "925". [1]
Read the surface: gold over sterling is vermeil
If a listing says gold plated over sterling, read those words as two separate material facts: the base and its surface. The FTC has a name for that pairing. Vermeil is gold plating on a base of sterling silver. [1]
How long a gold surface lasts depends on how it was applied and how thick it is, and the words on a listing tell you a great deal:
- Gold flashed or gold washed. A very thin electroplate that wears away faster than any of the others. Ask the seller what they mean by it. [1]
- Gold electroplate. At least 10 karat gold, at least .175 microns thick, applied electrolytically to a base metal. [1]
- Gold filled, gold overlay, rolled gold plate. A layer of at least 10 karat gold applied mechanically to a base metal, marked with its karat, as in "14K gold overlay" or "12K RGP". [1]
- Solid gold. Not hollow, and carrying a karat mark such as 14K or 18K. An 18K piece is 18 parts gold to 6 parts other metal. [1]
Ask for plating details when wear and longevity matter to you. A beautiful photograph cannot answer that question.
Name every stone precisely
"Pearl", "peridot" and "quartz" are different material descriptions. Look for the exact wording attached to each stone, along with size and setting details. The FTC's Jewelry Guides call for truthful descriptions of gemstones, pearls, metals, treatments and origin. If a listing leaves one of those details unclear, treat it as a question to resolve before purchase.
Read the object, not just the category
Take the current Peridot Coin Pearl Earrings listing as an example. PARKEN JEWELRY describes freshwater coin pearls and peridot gemstones, a length of 1.25 inches, French hooks, and 14k gold plating over sterling silver; in the FTC's terms, a vermeil finish. Those are the seller's listed specifications, not an independent materials test by Genius Loci. The images and product page let you judge the shape and scale; contact us if you need a detail the listing does not establish.
That separation matters. The material specification, the dimensions and the maker's account each answer a different question. None should be replaced by an invented quality grade or an assumption drawn from the price.
Hallmarks for Sophies Silver in Visby, Sweden / CC BY 4.0 / Wikimedia Commons
A short checklist before you decide
- Metal. Identify the base metal and any plating separately.
- Mark. Look for the maker's name or trademark beside the 925 or karat mark.
- Surface. Read the plating words: flashed, electroplate, filled, vermeil, solid.
- Stones. Read the exact stone and pearl descriptions; clarify anything ambiguous.
- Fit. Check dimensions, closure and photographs for how the piece will wear.
- Source. Keep the maker or supplier attribution with the object, and use the product page for current variant, availability and price.
Questions people ask
Is 925 the same as sterling silver?
Yes. "Sterling" and "925" both mean 92.5% pure silver; the mark should come with the name or trademark of whoever stands behind it. [1]
Is gold vermeil real gold?
It is real gold plating over a sterling silver base. How long it lasts depends on the thickness of the plating and how the piece is worn. [1]
What does "coin silver" mean?
Coin silver is 90% pure silver, slightly less than sterling's 92.5%. [1]
Keep reading
Sources: [1] FTC, Buying Platinum, Gold, and Silver Jewelry; FTC Jewelry Guides; current PARKEN JEWELRY product listing. Photo credits as captioned. Product specifications are attributed to the seller and should be checked against the current listing before ordering.